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Donovan Sewalong: Sewing the Pockets

Today, we are going to get the sewing started! The first step in sewing Donovan is assembling the slant pockets. Sewing slant pockets can seem intimidating, but really, they’re easier than they look. We will walk you through all of the steps to make clean, even pockets. You can view all of our Donovan Sewalong posts here.

Get the Donovan Skirt

Let’s get started! With right sides together and matching notches, line up the angled edge of the pocket with the angled edge of the skirt front. Pin in place.

Next, sew along the angled edge using a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Repeat these steps for the other pocket.

Now that the pockets are sewed to the skirt front, press the pockets and the seam allowances away from the skirt.

Once you’ve pressed your pockets and seam allowances, understitch each pocket to the seam allowance, 1/8″ (0.3 cm) from the seam. Understitching is a line of edgestitching that stabilizes the pocket opening, and keeps the pocket from flipping out onto the right side of the skirt.

Once the understitching is completed, we’re going to close up the pocket bags with French seams.

With wrong sides together, and matching notches, fold the pocket in half. Sew along the bottom edge of the pocket using a 1/4″ (0.6 cm) seam allowance.

Turn the pocket right side out, and press.

Sew along the bottom edge again using a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Now, the raw edge of the pocket bottom is neatly enclosed inside a French seam! Repeat this process for the other pocket.

Now that the pocket bags are formed, we’re going to fold the pockets into position. Flip the pockets so that the pocket bags lie against the wrong side of the skirt front, matching notches, and press. Pin the pockets into place to secure.

Baste the pockets along the top and side edges using a 1/2″ (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Basting is a technique used to hold fabric in position temporarily. Basting stitches have a longer stitch length, so they can easily be removed later. In this case, we will be finishing the edges of the skirt front, so you don’t need to worry about removing the basting stitches.

Give the pockets a final press, and that’s it! The slant pockets are complete. Of course, if you prefer, you can finish the bottom of the pocket bags with an alternative finishing, such as sewing and serging.

Next, we will be working on the side seams and side slits for Donovan. Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below!

About the author


Hi, I'm Chloe, the Creative Assistant at Helen's Closet! I'm a Vancouver transplant from San Francisco. I love sewing, the outdoors, and RuPaul's Drag Race.

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