Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

HelenMenswear, Pattern Hacks, Yanta Hacks, Yanta Overalls6 Comments

Yanta Overalls for Sam

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

One of the questions we get often about our Yanta Overalls pattern is “Can I make these for my [husband, father, partner, friend]?” I’ve been wanting to make Sam a pair of Yantas for years and I’m so glad I finally did it. I can say confidently that the answer is yes! I’ll be sharing my process in this post for how I fit these overalls for Sam so you can follow along and make Yantas for your loved ones, too. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

The number one thing you can do to ensure success when sewing for others is to make a muslin. I know it’s not always possible, but when you can, go for it! This step will ensure the finished garment fits and that your end-wearer is happy! 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

I started off Sam’s overalls by making some preliminary adjustments to the pattern. I graded between sizes based on his measurements and added length for his height. I also lengthened the straps because I knew I wanted to do overalls hardware

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

Here are the details:

Chest: 51.5” / 131 cm (size 26)
Waist: 49” / 124.5 cm (size 30)
Low belly: 52” / 132 cm (size 30+)
Hips: 46” / 117 cm (size 18)
Height: 6’2” / 188 cm

I chose to use size 26 for the top half and blend down to a 20 in the legs even though Sam’s waist measurements put him in a larger size. Yanta has generous ease in the mid-section and he said he didn’t want them fitting too loose. I also knew that blending from a 34 waist to 18 hip would be too dramatic of a curve, so a 26-20 made the most sense as a starting place. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

As for height, I initially added 6” (15 cm) total, and then after the first fit we ended up adding another 6” (15 cm).

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

After the first fit check, we realized we needed even more height in the rise of the overalls and he decided he wanted the legs to go all the way to the ground. Yanta has a slightly cropped leg so we added extra length to the legs. We also added length to the top of the bib because it was sitting low. Basically, we needed way more length! I slashed the muslin and sewed in the extra length in sections. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

In addition to the length, we also took the overalls in a bit from the hip to the calf. I did this by simply sewing the side seams with a larger seam allowance. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

After the second fit check, he felt there was not enough room in the back for bending over. It was feeling tight in the butt and pulling at the shoulders. I added another little wedge of fabric to the back rise to make more room in the seat. I also added a bit more length in the upper back. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

You can see that we marked up the muslin with sharpie to denote the pocket placement as well as some additional workwear panels. We did an extra layer of denim at the knees and I added some reinforcement to the back crotch, where his pants tend to wear out. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

At this point Sam was feeling happy with the fit but still a little concerned about mobility and comfort. Muslin fabric can be incredibly stiff and unforgiving, so I felt confident that in the more flexible and soft bull denim, the fit would be more comfortable. We also decided to make the side scoops in the front a little less scooped. I just made this change on the finished pattern. I also changed the angle of the front darts to fit his belly shape better. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

The finished product is so great! He loves the fit and just as I suspected, the mobility and comfort greatly improved with the fashion fabric. These are intended for him to do yardwork in and so the green colour felt very appropriate. I can’t wait to see how they soften and age with wear. 

As I was sewing them I accidentally cut into the side seam of the back pants with my rotary cutter. I had a moment of panic and then I just decided to add another reinforced panel to the sides of the back and it turned out great! 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog

My biggest takeaway from this project is that I am so glad we went through the muslining process and did several rounds of changes until it was perfect. If I had just tried to estimate his size and length requirements, it would not have fit nearly as well! Now he has a practical and wearable pair of overalls that he loves and I’m so happy. 

Yanta Overalls for Sam - Helen's Closet Patterns Blog
About the author

Helen

Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

6 Comments on “Yanta Overalls for Sam”

  1. The Yanta Overalls are my favorite pants. I get compliments whenever I wear them. I made a second pair with the large pockets from the York pinafore and they are perfect. I hope Sam enjoys the overalls! They look great.

  2. This gave me a new appreciation for clothes “made to fit” as opposed to just making some pattern adjustments by measurement. Thank you for the walk through of the process. That was neat!

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