Alina Design Co Hampton Jacket

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Flannel Underlined Hampton Jean Jacket

Alina Design Co Hampton Jacket

When Alina asked me if I wanted to join in the Hampton Jean Jacket tour I had to say yes! I have mentioned wanting to make this project on the podcast, so I it felt like the perfect opportunity to finally get going. I do tend to make things happen if there is a deadline, and I also love a good challenge. Alina mentioned that some of the other ladies on the tour were modifying the jacket in different ways and getting creative with the project, so of course, I wanted to get on board with that! I am first in this week’s tour, so go and check out the rest of the series as the week goes on!

Hampton Tour

Hampton Jean Jacket Fall 2017 Blog Tour
October 9: Helen’s Closet
October 13: Well Fibre

If you want to try the Hampton Jacket, you can grab the pattern this week for 15% off using the code HAMPTONSFORALL.

For my Hampton Jacket, I had SO many ideas and I had trouble narrowing it down. I knew I wanted to use a piece of lightweight blue denim I picked up at an Our Social Fabric sale here in Vancouver, but there wasn’t quite enough of it to make the whole jacket. This got me thinking about what fabrics I had on hand to do a duo-toned look and I remembered this pair of black jeans I had leftover from my Refashioners 2016 challenge. I spent so long trying to figure out how to squeeze the jacket out of these two pieces of fabric and I finally managed to strike a nice balance and use almost all of the material (so little scraps left)!

Alina Design Co Hampton Jacket Alina Design Co Hampton Jacket

The shoulder caps (or pauldrons as I have been affectionately calling them) were a happy necessity. I needed to cut the main sleeve from the jeans but there wasn’t enough uninterrupted (no seam lines) denim to cut this large pattern piece. I ended up taking off the back pockets and loving the darker black colour underneath. I lined up the piece so that the pocket would be on the top of the shoulder and I went for it. There were also thread holes where the topstitching was, so I decided to sew over the holes with my topstitching thread and make a feature of it! This shoulder detail makes the jacket look pretty badass, don’t you think?

Upcycled Jeans Hampton Jacket Upcycled Jeans Hampton Jacket Upcycled Jeans Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton Jacket

My next challenge was that my blue denim was pretty thin. I worried that the jacket would lack structure on the bottom, so I had the idea to underline it for stability. I remembered another piece of fabric from OSF that I had in my stash and I loved the way the three textiles looked together. I was able to get underlining cut from this small piece for the body of the jacket and I opted not to line the sleeves.

Flannel Underlined Hampton JacketFlannel Underlined Hampton Jacket

When underlining, you cut two of each underlined piece and you treat the two fabrics as one unit. This is different from lining, where the lining is separate from the garment and encloses all the seams inside. Because I had so many pieces of fabric to work with, flat-felling the seams was a bit tricky. There was more bulk to handle, so I took Alina’s advice and I used the amazing Wonder Tape to tape all of my seams in place before sewing them. This was a real lifesaver because I could not get the seams to stay folded using pins. I also graded my seams as much as possible to reduce bulk.

Flannel Underlined Hampton Jacket Flannel Underlined Hampton Jacket

One more thing I did differently was that I eliminated the welt pockets because I don’t tend to use pockets on denim jackets and I wanted a really clean inside. I also serged the edges of the upper pockets and did not turn them under as instructed. I simply had too much bulk to make it work here, but the serged edge barely shows because I used matching serger thread.

Flannel Underlined Hampton Jacket

The flannel underlining really adds a cozy element to this jacket and I love the way the copper topstitching and buttons matches the orange flannel inside!

Flannel Underlined Hampton Jacket

For the rest of the black denim areas, I had to do some creative cutting to make things work. The back yoke has a center back seam, as does the back collar. The front yoke has the original inseam positioned right on the center front edge, which worked out great for cutting but was challenging to topstitch. My topstitching on this project is far from perfect, but seeing as this is my second time topstitching denim, I’m pretty proud of the results!

Alina Design Co Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton Jacket\

Let’s talk about buttons and buttonholes! In general, I got through this project without too many buttonhole snafus, but making buttonholes with topstitching thread is challenging on thicker fabric. For most of my buttonholes, I used regular thread underneath, but for the center front row, I chose to use topstitching thread underneath because it can be seen more often. However, on the top, black denim area, the buttonholer was like NOPE and I was forced to use regular thread in the bobbin. C’est la vie!

Flannel Underlined Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton Jacket

I used jeans buttons from Closet Case Patterns (I had some button-fly jeans kits and I just decided to use those). They worked out great and I loved hammering them all in! So much fun to wield a hammer while working on a sewing project.

Alina Design Co Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton Jacket

I absolutely love my Hampton Jacket! It fits so well and it is truly a unique garment. The pattern was great and the instructions were phenomenal! I would recommend this pattern to anyone looking to level up their sewing and encourage advanced beginners to give this one a try! It looks complex, but Alina helps you through the whole thing with her sewalong and her great instructions.

Alina Design Co Hampton JacketAlina Design Co Hampton Jacket

When Sam tells me to look intimidating in my badass jacket – this is what happens to my face.

Flannel Underlined Hampton Jacket

If you want to try the Hampton Jacket, you can grab the pattern this week for 15% off using the code HAMPTONSFORALL.

Don’t forget to check out the other ladies in this tour! Here is the Schedule:

Hampton Jean Jacket Fall 2017 Blog Tour
October 9: Helen’s Closet
October 13: Well Fibre

Hampton Tour

About the author


Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

23 Comments on “Flannel Underlined Hampton Jean Jacket”

  1. Helen this looks awesome! The mix of fabrics makes it so unique. The underlining is a perfect idea for Vancouver weather. An inspiring make! I might look at this pattern again.

    1. Thanks Janet! I would highly recommend this pattern if you are interested in a denim jacket! It is indeed perfect for this fall Vancouver weather we are having!

  2. Well done Helen! I love this piece and with the flannel lining it must feel so cozy. I adore your intimidating badass face.

  3. Oh I love your take on this SO much, Helen! You are so talented! Thank you so much for joining the tour–I hope you get lots and lots of wear out of this this fall!

    1. It is quite similar to that levis jacket, isn’t it! I love the blue coloured lining…I may have to make a second version now!

  4. WOT? WHAAAAT? Oh my gosh, this is such a clever make Helen! Well done and thanks for sharing! I mean….that shoulder is genius….or jeanius, LOL!

    I’ll be avoiding Van’s back alleys….don’t want a run in with your badass self…

  5. I made this using a barn jacket pattern for the extra length and roomy pockets and wear it almost every day. Will try mixing fabrics next time because that is a great idea. Your seams looked just fine to me. Thank you so much for sharing your ideas.

    1. Thanks Jessica! I would love a roomier version, too! Ive seen some very cool looking oversized denim jackets this year so I may try to replicate that myself!

  6. This looks like a classic jacket that you’ll enjoy wearing for years. I really like your combination of fabrics, including the lining.

  7. Great make, Helen! I particularly love the sustainable fashion aspect, with recovered and reused fabric. A lot of creating problem solving, like in the shoulder area! Really well done!

  8. I have been obsessed with underlining since this past weekend at Camp Workroom Social (pretty sure it’s a long term obsession) so I love, love, love this combo of denim + flannel. It looks SO good!

    1. Thanks Emily! It is a great thing to play around with in sewing – so fun to have a different fabric on the outside and inside!

  9. Pingback: Sonntagsschnack #33 • Seemannsgarn - handmade

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