Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

HelenHelen's Makes, Pona Jacket13 Comments

Handwoven Cotton Pona Jacket

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

Are you drawn to bold prints and amazing handwoven fabrics? Do you buy medium weight textiles that aren’t suitable for tops or dresses, but aren’t quite right for pants either? Welcome to the club! This problem actually led to the design of the Pona Jacket. I LOVE woven and printed medium weight fabrics. The heft of them, the unique prints, and the way they can hold shape is just magic to me.

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

This past summer, Blackbird Fabrics released a collection of handwoven cotton from India (sold out now, but you can see them here and here). I wanted to buy them all but this green and gold one really stood out to me. The contrast of the green and black with the metallic gold accents was so stunning and I knew it would make the perfect Pona Jacket!

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet
Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

I made this back in November when the pattern was released, so I am a little late to share it with you all. Let’s just say I was too busy wearing it ALL THE TIME. This outfit is one of my go-to’s and I really think that the cropped view of Pona pairs so well with high-waisted jeans like these Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans I am wearing here.

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet
Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

For those of you who haven’t had a chance to check out the Pona Jacket, it is a simple, unlined, layering piece that features a statement lapel and a dropped shoulder. It is perfect for medium weight fabrics like linen, cotton, corduroy, and denim. The fact that it is unlined means you could cut and sew Pona in one sewing session. The collar is also very beginner-friendly! Don’t be afraid to try sewing outerwear, our detailed instructions have got you covered.

This fabric has a fantastic ‘wrong’ side. I love the way it looks peeking out from inside the garment, or when I take my jacket off and hang it on a chair, the wrong side makes a statement, too!

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet
Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

I opted to highlight the pocket a bit by staggering the striped print. I played with the idea of placing the stripes vertically on the pockets but ultimately decided that this staggered stripe was eye-catching enough for me. I also love the way the stripe changes direction on the lapel and collar when it folds over. Stripes are so much fun to work with!

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet
Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

As you can see in these pics, the fabric is really holding its shape. Again, this is the magic of a structured medium weight woven! It is so nice to layer over other garments because of its voluminous nature. It also makes me feel kinda badass, you know?

Pona Jacket Helen's Closet
Pona Jacket Helen's Closet

I have several Pona Jackets (five, I think?) but this one is the shining star. When I put it on I feel like a million bucks. If you have a fabric like this green and gold cotton in your stash, maybe try the Pona Jacket or another light layering jacket! It could be your new fav.

Pona Jacket Sewing Pattern by Helen's Closet
About the author

Helen

Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

13 Comments on “Handwoven Cotton Pona Jacket”

  1. OMG I bought this fabric because I loved it and then promptly realized I had NO idea how to work with it or what to make. πŸ˜› This jacket is amazing! (Plus, I’ve been itching to sew up a Pona!) Did you have to do anything special working with this fabric due its textured nature? And, um, would it be okay if I copied (with full credit of course)? πŸ˜‰

    1. I would be so happy if you made a matching jacket! This fabric is nice and stable so it isn’t too tricky to work with. When you cut it, the edges do fray, so just be careful to sew all the woven ends into your seams πŸ™‚

      1. Thanks Helen!! The fabric has now been washed and is drying as we speak. Can’t wait to get started! πŸ™‚

  2. This is SO cute! I’m so hesitant to make it though. One I wonder if my skills are up to it, and 2 I’m almost six feet tall. Everything I have ever tried on that’s cropped makes me look weirdly proportioned πŸ™

    1. Joy: My daughter is over 6′, and I find that as long as I lengthen everything to match the look of the original, she looks great. This one would probably hit her at the waist with the original fit. I’m guessing I would have to add 4″ or more for the hem to end on her at the same place as the jacket hits in these images.

  3. I have been planning to weave my own fabric for about a year now but went back and forth about what pattern to use. This looks like a perfect match!

  4. Would it work to have contrast fabric for the facings ? I’ve bought a fab remnant but not quite enough

    1. Hi Jo,

      Yes! A contrast fabric on the facings can look really cool. Keep in mind that it will show on the outside of the jacket lapel, too! You can sew the collar in contrast to match if you like.

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