One of the FAQs we get about our Cassidy Wrap Top is, “Can I make Cassidy into a dress?” The answer is yes! You know I love a good pattern hack, and this one is a no-brainer. I love that a dress view of Cassidy can be quite formal, making it a great option for special occasions. I made this version for my last birthday celebration, and I felt so glamorous wearing it. Read on to find out how to make this hack!
Pssst: You can get Cassidy for 30% off in the shop using the code CASSIDY30. Coupon code valid until December 23, 2024.
There are a few possible ways to make Cassidy into a dress. One of them is to add a gathered skirt to the bodice, which we will explain in this post. This can be made any length, and is essentially just large rectangles of fabric added on. We are also going to share how to make a dress by lengthening the peplums later this week!
The gathered skirt is easy and results in a fun, voluminous skirt. The length of the dress is totally up to you. There is plenty of ease and the wrap makes it flexible, so even at full length, I can walk without any issues.
Choose a lightweight and drapey fabric! I used a rayon challis, and it is perfect for this. Anything heavy will result in a lot of bulk at the waist.
How to calculate the gathered skirt panel widths:
You need to measure the length along the top of the front and back peplum pattern pieces. Don’t worry about the seam allowance. Just measure edge to edge.
For the back peplum, be sure to multiply the measurement by two, so you get the full width needed.
On the peplum pattern pieces, measure the distance between the notches and record it somewhere. You will not have these notches on the skirt pieces, so having accurate measurements for gathering the bust and back is important.
To get the width of your rectangle panels, multiply the peplum measurements by 1.5. If your panels exceed the width of your fabric, you can consider cutting them on the cross grain if you have enough for your desired length, or you can piece together fabric to get the amount required.
Can you multiply by more or less than 1.5? You can use a bigger multiplier to get more fullness if desired. A smaller multiplier may not result in a dress that fits nicely over the hips so we do not recommend less than 1.5.
The length of the skirt rectangles is completely up to you! Estimate the length from your waist to where you want the skirt to end. Don’t forget to add ⅝” (1.6 cm) seam allowance for the waist and at least another ⅝” (1.6 cm) hem allowance to this measurement! You can choose your desired hem depth. I chose a deeper hem for my dress.
Make sure to transfer the side notches from the peplum pieces to the new skirt pieces. Place the notches the same distance away from the waist attachment seam.
If you want to add inseam pockets to your dress, now is the time to do it! Refer to this blog post on adding an inseam pocket and downloading a free pocket pattern piece.
Finally, you will need to lengthen the peplum facing piece to match the desired length of your dress. Make sure the hem allowance on your new facing matches the hem allowance on your skirt.
How much fabric will I need?
This will depend on a lot of factors, like the desired length of the dress, the fullness of the skirt, width of fabric, etc. I recommend making your calculations and laying out your pattern pieces on a large table or floor to get an accurate picture of how much fabric you need. Consider the width of the fabric when you are doing this!
Assembling the dress
Sew the Cassidy Wrap Top as normal. In step 8, when you are gathering the bust and center back gathering stitches, use the notches on the front and back peplum pieces or the recorded distance as a reference for how much to gather. Make sure to multiply the distance for the back by 2. Knot the gathering threads together on each end of the gathers to lock them in place if needed.
When sewing the skirt, follow steps 12-17 in the instruction booklet as if you were sewing the peplum. You can skip step 14 (hem pre-pressing) if you wish!
Before attaching the skirt to the bodice, sew two lines of gathering stitches along the top edge of the skirt, using the same gathering method outlined in the instructions for gathering the bodice. You can gather the top of the skirt in sections—each front and back separately. This will make gathering easier since the width of your skirt is likely very long.
Once the skirt is gathered and distributed evenly, match the side seams of the skirt and bodice and pin and sew them together. Finish this seam and press it down towards the skirt. This will be step 18 in the instructions.
Continue the construction of Cassidy from step 19 onward (sewing on the tie). You can use either tie width here or create your own width of tie. I wanted a 1” (2.5 cm) wide tie on my dress so it had a bit more presence. It is somewhere in between the narrow and wide tie provided. The rest of the construction follows the same steps as the instructions.
This hack is really simple and effective. It’s so nice to have a wrap bodice like Cassidy that fits well and can be used to make tops or dresses! We will be sharing two other ways to make Cassidy into a dress in the next two weeks. This could be the perfect pre-holiday and New Year's celebration sew!
Pssst: You can get Cassidy for 30% off in the shop using the code CASSIDY30. Coupon code valid until December 23, 2024.
Happy sewing and let me know if you try this hack!
Helen
