Winslow Culottes Sewalong

HelenWinslow Culottes, Winslow Sewalong4 Comments

Winslow Culottes Sewalong : Cutting the Fabric

Winslow Culottes Sewalong

Today we will be cutting out our Winslows!  I am making view A, so you can see all my pattern pieces in one picture.  If you are making the longer views, the layout and process is the same, but with longer pant pieces.

You will need a pair of fabric shears and pins, or optionally a rotary cutter, cutting mat, ruler, and pattern weights. I use large metal washers from the hardware store for pattern weights and store them using a velcro loop. They are fantastic!  I love that they come in so many different sizes. Winslow Culottes Sewalong

I am using a tencel denim from Blackbird Fabrics (currently sold out).  It is 145 cm wide (57″), so I am using the cutting layout on the fold.  Pleas refer to your pattern instructions for the appropriate cutting layout for your fabric.  As you can see below, you need to cut 4 of the pocket pieces (2 pairs). I have traced one in chalk so you can see the full layout.  The waistband is cut on the fold.   If using 45″ wide fabric, you can trace one side of the waistband and then flip it over to get the full width (as shown in cutting diagrams).

Winslow Culottes Sewalong

The pattern is designed for a 5’6″ woman, so I am lengthening view A 2″ to make it the length I want for my height (5’9.5″).   To lengthen or shorten the Winslows, just add or remove length from the bottom edge. If you are using a rotary cutter, this is easy to do with a large clear ruler. Winslow Culottes Sewalong

Here is a closeup of me lengthening my pant piece by 2″.Winslow Culottes Sewalong

After you cut each pant piece out, be sure to cut your notches.  There are three notches along the top of the pants for the pleats, and two along the side edge for the pockets. Avoid cutting the paper with your nice fabric scissors, as this will wear them out faster.  Winslow Culottes Sewalong

In addition to the notches, you have 2 pivot dots to mark for the pockets.  These dots need to be marked on the wrong side of your fabric.  Winslow Culottes Sewalong

On the waistband, there is a notch at the center fold.  Clip into the fabric on the fold 1/4″. Winslow Culottes Sewalong

When you are done cutting, you will have 1 pair of front pants, 1 pair of back pants, 2 pairs of pockets, and one waistband. Winslow Culottes Sewalong

Next, cut your interfacing using the waistband pattern piece.Winslow Culottes SewalongApply your interfacing.  If using fusible, place the glue side down on the wrong side of your fabric and press and hold your iron for 10 seconds to set the glue.  Lift and move your iron along the waistband, do not drag.  It is recommended that you use a press cloth to avoid getting glue on your iron.  Winslow Culottes Sewalong

That’s all or cutting out the Winslows!  If you have questions regarding specific fabric widths, sizes, or alternative layouts, please let me know! I am happy to help. Tomorrow we will be sewing the pleats and pockets.

About the author


Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

4 Comments on “Winslow Culottes Sewalong : Cutting the Fabric”

  1. Woohoo! My fabric came today. Any suggestions for grading up to a 43″ waist? My hips are also 5″ wider than the size 20 hip measurement. So I guess I need to grade up to the equivalent of a size 25. I’m very excited about this pattern and I’d love any advice!

    1. Hi Laura! I’m glad you are excited! You can add 5″ to the waistband and the top of the pants (distribute the 5″ amongst the 4 pattern pieces. The pleats are intended to be at the center of each pant pieces, so be sure to add equal distance on either side to keep the pleats centred. You can use the pleat notches for size 20, and your pleat will still look proportionate.

      Because of the extra width you are adding, you may need a bit more fabric, or may need to cut the pieces not on the fold (if using the 150cm wide cutting layout). Let me know how it goes!

      1. Spliting up the 5 inches makes so much sense, I totally didn’t think about it like that. I’ll let you know how it goes!

  2. Hi, I got this lovely pattern and some nice rayon to sew it, but checking after printing, I realized that the size 18 – that would be correct for my waist – would not fit me in the crotch length, as my hips are much bigger than the size chart (specially my Brazilian bottom). For it to sit on my natural waist it would need to be at least 96 cm long. Could you help me figure out how to adapt it? Thank you so much!

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