Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

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Stretch Corduroy Yanta Overalls

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

If there is a fabric that perfectly exemplifies autumn sewing I think it would be red corduroy. There is something about the cozy warmth of the napped fabric with its lovely texture and rich sheen. I just love it! I knew as soon as fall hit and I was thinking about making another pair of our Yanta Overalls pattern (a true staple in my all-season wardrobe), I needed to make a pair in corduroy. 

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

I used 9.5oz stretch cotton corduroy for this make. The wales (vertical lines) are pretty pronounced on this cord and it has a pronounced nap. Corduroy comes in lots of different weights and wale-widths and naps. I recommend a weight between 6oz and 9oz. Mine was pushing it a bit. I actually used an alternative method to sew the back of my Yantas here because the fabric was too thick to tuck the straps inside the facing. I have a video outlining what I did on our Instagram profile, saved in our highlights under ‘Yanta Back 2’. 

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

One question we get a lot about sewing Yanta is “Can I make the Yanta Overalls out of a fabric with stretch?” The answer is yes! Woven fabrics with spandex mixed in can work for Yanta. This includes stretch denim, stretch cord, and medium-weight stretch cotton. This does not include knit fabrics like jersey or French terry. You may want to size down when working with a stretch fabric. I did not size down initially, but when It came time to sew up the side seams, I took them in until it was a comfy fit. I did not sew the size zip on these. This is one of my favorite things about the Yanta pattern – it is easy to take it in at the side seams since they are the last major seam to be sewn and you can try them on for fitting at this stage.

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

You may be wondering if I used the cord for the facing as well as the body of the garment. I did opt to use the cord for the facing because of the stretch. If I used a cotton for the facing to reduce the bulk, the stretch of the cord would be impeded and it might end up looking lumpy and bumpy. If I was working with a non-stretch cord, I would likely cut the facing from some nice matching or contrast cotton. 

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

There are two things you want to be aware of when you are sewing with corduroy:

  1. The fabric has a directional nap. This means that when you run your hands along the vertical wales, the fabric is smooth one direction and more rough in the other. The colour looks different when the light hits it from different angles. Make sure you keep this in mind when you cut out your project pieces. You may need to get extra fabric in order to have all the main pieces going the same way. 
  2. You can crush the nap with the iron. Do some tests on scrap fabric to get a feel for what you can and can’t do with your iron and your corduroy. You may find that you crush or leave marks on the napped fibers with the iron. Try pressing with the wrong side facing up and the nap resting on a bath towel to help preserve it.
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

Other than that, you will figure it out as you sew! I find corduroy pretty easy to work with as it is usually made from cotton. It is nice and stable and handles well. I think a beginner can work with corduroy if they want to! Just keep in mind that sewing many layers of cord can be a lot to put through a machine. If your machine tends to struggle with thicker fabrics, this might not be the fabric for you. 

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

I opted for overalls hardware on my Yantas. This change is easy to make and only requires that you get hardware and make some simple adjustments to your straps. I added a bit of length to mine so I would have more strap to work with. I did not change the width, but I really struggled to get the straps in the buckle with this thick cord. You can taper the width of the strap even more to get it to be narrower and fit in the buckle better. 

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet

I love love LOVE my new red corduroy Yanta Overalls. They are just perfect for fall and for the Holidays coming up! I love how cozy they are with the brushed texture and the warm hue. I can’t wait to put them into rotation in my wardrobe and watch them wear, too! Corduroy gets this really satisfying vintage look when you wash it regularly. I’ll try to post an update about how that goes. Thanks for checking out my latest make!

Red Corduroy Yanta Overalls from Helen's Closet
About the author

Helen

Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

20 Comments on “Stretch Corduroy Yanta Overalls”

  1. These are fantastic! What a perfect fall color. I love corduroy so much. I could definitely see myself wearing these with a little black long sleeve tee. I bet you’ll get a lot of wear out of them.

  2. Gosh Helen. These look fantastic and I’m wondering if I need a 4th pair of Yanta overalls. Mmm. Well we are going into summer here in Sydney so probably not in corduroy but something to think about for next winter. Maybe in a nice nutmeg brown.

  3. These are beautiful! I will get this pattern Please please tell me where I can find this color of red Corderoy Thank you

  4. I love how you’ve paired this with the indigo woven top and well, the whole look. I already have the pattern and some vintage persimmon fine wale corduroy in my stash. After seeing these photos, I’m eager to give it a go. Until now I’ve hesitated with the color of the corduroy for me – i’m seeing it with a new outlook. Thanks for posting all the photos too.
    A question – what direction did you run the nap? Is there a reason one would choose one direction over the other?
    Thanks!

    1. Hi Joyce,

      I did my nap running down, so it is smooth when I run my hands down my body. This is my preferred direction as it makes gravitational sense to me. I don’t think it matters though! You can choose whatever direction makes sense to you.

  5. Sew fun to make these in a vibrant fall colour. I’m disappointed though that a Canadian business is selling PDF patterns in US funds.

    1. Thanks Tammy! I understand your disappointment, but the majority of our customers are coming from the US (about 80%) so it makes sense for us as a business to sell in USD. The price is the same regardless of the currency (for example, 16 USD would be 20 CAD). All the funds end up in CAD in the end 🙂

    1. Hi Denise,

      I am sorry but there is not a way to view it currently. It is something I plan to make into a blog post eventually. Sorry about that! Thanks for your patience.

  6. Hi Helen, These overalls look great!! So cute with the petal sleeve Ashton in indigo. I was just wondering whether it’s ok to do flat-felled seams for the Yantas? I don’t have an overlocker and want to avoid all those little corduroy ‘ants’ that come off the seams. Thanks for your help!

    1. Hi Georgina,

      Thanks! Yes, you can do flat felled seams on Yanta for the inseam and the side seam (as long as you are not sewing the invisible zip). If you are sewing a zip, you can try pressing the seam allowances open and under to fell each side individually.

  7. I’m currently making my first pair of Yanta’s, using a stretch twill fabric. I’ve struggled rather with putting on the facing around the straps. It will pass, but it’s not ideal as it’s rather lumpy. Do you have any tips? I’m sure I’ll be making another pair before too long!

    1. Hi Helen!

      This is a tricky spot to be sure. If you are on instagram, you can check out our alternative method for this back area under our highlight “Yanta Back 2”. We are going to be making this into a blog post soon as well. Essentially, you sew the facings on without the straps, leaving gaps to insert them in after. Then once everything is turned right side out, you slide the straps in and topstitch!

  8. Love this pattern and I have now made four pairs of these, both for my adult daughters and myself. My daughter’s boyfriend wants me to make him a pair now and, as a bit of a newby at adjusting patterns, I am wondering how to adjust for a mail physique, beyond making the length adjustments?

    1. Hi Amanda! I’m so glad you like the pattern! I do think it would work great for men with little adjustments needed. The best thing to do would be to sew a muslin to start and fit it on him. Then you can make adjustments from there. You may end up eliminating the darts that add the waist shaping.

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