Wool Pona Jacket

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Lengthened Boiled Wool Pona Jacket

Lengthened Pona Jacket in boiled wool.
Long boiled wool jacket.

This jacket has been on my ‘to make’ list since this pattern was released in 2019. I sincerely wish I had made it sooner because—my goodness—what a fun sew this was! I want to walk you through sewing with boiled wool today and show you how I changed the construction of Pona in order to sew overlapping seams.

Grey Pona Jacket in boiled wool from Blackbird Fabrics.

I used Boiled Wool from Blackbird Fabrics. This particular one is quite beefy and has some serious weight to it. I actually ended up doing a really deep hem on this Pona Jacket because of that extra weight pulling the jacket allllll the way to the ground. I didn’t want to be dragging this gorgeous wool through our muddy, wet snow here in BC, so I just shortened the jacket.

Lengthened Pona Jacket in boiled wool, back view of deep hem and kick pleat detail.

Here are the changes I made to the Pona Jacket pattern:

  • Lengthened front, back, and front facings 22″.
  • Tapered the arms in 1″ at the wrist for a tighter fit.
  • Added a center-back seam and a kick pleat.
  • I skipped the interfacing on the neck facing and collar.
Long boiled wool jacket shown seated. Constructed from Pona jacket sewing pattern and grey boiled wool.

I decided to sew overlapped seams with this fabric because boiled wool does not fray and I love the way it looks when it is sewn like this. I first encountered this on my Tessuti Berlin Jacket. These seams almost look inside out!

Overlapped seams on a boiled wool Pona Jacket.

Top tip for sewing overlapping seams: Do not clip notches! These will show on the final garment. Mark notches with chalk or other marking tool.

The most challenging thing about sewing overlapped seams is that you can’t see your seam allowance markings. I used lots of pins and sewed slow, with the side I wanted looking nice and neat facing up. The undersides of the seams are a little wobbly but that’s ok! I could trim them down but I won’t— I embrace the wobbles.

Inside of a Pona Jacket made from boiled wool. Styled with the Jackson Tee.

The other big challenge is what order to sew in. It all depends where you want the overlaps to sit. I thought this through as I went along, and I did unpick a couple of times to do things in a different order—it was like a mini design challenge!

Lengthened Pona Jacket pocket close up. Sewing with boiled wool allows for the patch pockets to be placed under the facing seam.

One of my favourite features of this garment is the pocket placement. I decided to sew the front facing and back neck facing on the exterior of the coat to highlight these cool shapes. In doing so, I realized I could sandwich the pocket in between the facing and the side seam so I overlapped them accordingly. I actually trimmed some width off of my facing to make this gap larger so I could fit a good sized pocket in there.

Lengthened Pona Jacket with kick pleat detail, made in a gray boiled wool.

Another feature I really like about this jacket is the little kick pleat I added to the back. I just made this up as I went along – cutting a little wedge extra at the bottom and then folding it onto the jacket to make this shape. It was supposed to be longer and it would have been if the jacket hadn’t gotten so weighed down by itself (to the point where I had to hem it 6″ shorter than I intended). Oh well—lesson learned!

Close up on Pona jacket collar and facings, sewn in a boiled wool from Blackbird Fabrics.

You’ll notice that the collar and lapels also have raw edges and the collar is sandwiched in between the facings (now on the outside of the garment) and the body of the jacket. All of these layers together were hard to sew, I won’t lie. Basting stitches are your friend here! Baste by hand for extra control. Once you get things in place, then you can hit the machine.

Boiled wool jacket with overlapping seams. Styled with the Pona Jacket.

The way the seams overlap is up to you! I like my back seams overlapping onto the front of the garment, but it’s just as good the other way. I chose to put my sleeve on top of the jacket, but you can put it underneath, too! The fun part of boiled wool and overlapping seams is how creative the process is.

Here is the order I sewed in:

  1. Sew center back seam and kick pleat.
  2. Sew body shoulder seams with overlap to the front.
  3. Sew top of the pockets with overlap on top.
  4. Baste pockets in place along jacket side front seams.
  5. Sew bottom of pockets to jacket front.
  6. Sew facing shoulder seams with overlap to the front.
  7. Sew collars together.
  8. Baste collar to jacket body with overlap on top.
  9. Sew facings on top of jacket body, collar, and pocket.
  10. Sew sleeves to jacket with overlap on top.
  11. Sew side seams with overlap to the front.
  12. Sew sleeve cuff with overlap to the inside (this will be on the outside when cuffed).
  13. Fold up the hem as much as you like to the right side and topstitch.
Long Pona Jacket sewn in grey boiled wool, front view.

I didn’t add any waist tie to this jacket because I thought it might make it look a bit like a bathrobe. I do think a boiled wool waist tie would work great though, and you can find that tutorial here.

Long boiled wool jacket shown seated.

This jacket feels so luxurious and special. I love the light grey colour and it feels amazing to wear. It’s heavy and long and I think it makes me look very cool, haha. Due to its length, I don’t think ill be wearing it on long walks in the woods with the dog, but I do plan to wear it on special occasions or even just shopping at the grocery store!

Boiled wool Pona Jacket, worn with a Jackson tee and jeans.

Thanks for checking out this make! Happy sewing!
Helen

About the author

Helen

Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

33 Comments on “Lengthened Boiled Wool Pona Jacket”

  1. I love the length of this but am not sure how you calculate how much extra fabric you’d need to make it this length? I live in fear (!) of under ordering the right amount of fabric!!

    1. I like to look at the cutting layouts for my size to calculate this! If I am lengthening the jacket by 22″, I need to get at least that much extra, and possibly double or triple that if I can’t fit the pieces in side-by-side.

  2. Hi Helen, what a fabulous jacket! I love the look of the overlapped seams. I was just wondering if this hack would also work with a wool melton?

  3. I absolutely love this, can I ask when lengthing are you going straight down? So no extra width? I want to spend time and invest in this coat to love it for years great pics ❤️

  4. That is a really beautiful coat! I especially like the deep hem at the bottom and raw edges. Thank you for the post explaining what you did and why.

  5. Love, love your new version! It’s the best and you look great in it. Definitely the one that inspires me to make it.

  6. Gorgeous!!! Love seeing all of your hacks for each of your patterns. Really opens my mind to using any pattern to create multiple looks with fairly simple alterations.

  7. What were seam allowances? Did you trim seam allowances before overlap sewing or sew and then trim? Thinking if 5/8 would be easier to overlap if i trimmed each seam edge to 1/4″ seam allowance before overlapping and sewing.

    1. Great question Donna! I actually did not alter the seam allowances so this version ended up a little bit larger overall. Since it is oversized, I don’t mind. If you want to trim them down to 1/4″ to keep the pattern ease as-designed, that works too!

  8. Love this hack, it doesn’t look heavy at all. Is it step #9 That gave the look of a yoke on the back of this coat? Placing the facing on the outside of the coat?

    1. Hi Linda,

      Yes, exactly! I also added a center back seam so I could have a kick pleat. There is a back neck facing included with the pattern and I sewed it on the outside to get that cool effect.

      1. Is the center back seam under the back facing as well? I may try this but piece the shape out of the back so the back seam ends at the ‘yoke’. I love the lapped seams. I have been wanting to do this with wool for some time. It seams as if this particular version, with no curved seams, would make it a great candidate for lapped seams!

        1. Hi Linda! The back seam does go under the yoke/back facing, yes! You could totally piece it together instead so there are fewer layers there 🙂

  9. To be honest, I didn’t give the pattern much attention when it was released. But it’s fantastic what you did with it. I’m very inspired. It’s so muc more special than the original. It’s on my wish list now.

  10. This is exactly the look I have been wanting. I am thinking of doing it in denim. Look out for the picture 🙂

  11. I always use my walking foot when sewing overlapped seams. It is easier to keep it straight. It rakes a bit of time to master it. Your coat looks fabulous. I am in New Zealand and im going to make it. I cany wait.

  12. Hi Helen!
    Since I’ve discovered your website I’ve bought a few pattern that I can’t wait to sew.
    I really love the this long Pona jacket.
    I bought a nice knit fabric and make a mid-length jacket with it.
    I really like what you do.
    Waiting for the next pattern 😉

  13. Hi Helen!
    I’am about to begin sewing the Pona jacket but I was just wondering if the length of the sleeves of the view A jacket is wrist length or under mid forearm length? I like long sleeves on my jackets…
    Thank you for uour answer

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