Berlin Jacket

HelenHelen's Makes19 Comments

Boiled Wool Berlin Jacket

It can be a challenge to get nice pictures of your makes in the winter months. The weather always seems to be working against you and the lack of foliage can make things look a bit bare and desolate. In Vancouver, I typically only have rain to contend with, but this past week it snowed unexpectedly, and I decided to make the most of it!

Berlin Jacket Berlin Jacket

The snow was the perfect backdrop for my new Berlin Jacket. I just whipped up this coat after seeing gorgeous versions from Jen Beeman and Laura from Blackbird Fabrics. I bought some boiled wool in a beautiful red clay and made this jacket in about 2 hours! It was such a quick and satisfying sew. This pattern is from Tessuti and has their telltale casual chic vibe with modern details and effortless wearability.

Berlin Jacket Berlin Jacket

One thing that I enjoyed about making the Berlin was the construction. The seams are all sewed flat and the edges are not finished. This makes it so ideal for a fabric like boiled wool, because it does not fray. I love the way the edges look layered over each other. It was interesting to get out of my usual flow with construction and it took me a few minutes to figure out how everything was going to fit together.

Berlin Jacket Berlin Jacket

I did make one change with my version, and that is to sew the front band on the outside of the jacket instead of the inside. It is not a huge difference, but I liked the way it looked better. The band has a similar feel to the Blackwood Cardigan, and conveniently, the two patterns pair very well together! The long sleeves of the Blackwood will keep your wrists warm in the cold.

Berlin Jacket Berlin JacketBerlin Jacket

I loved getting out in the freshly fallen snow to get these pics, and I have been wearing my Berlin nonstop since making it a couple weeks ago. I think this pattern is great for beginners because it is so simple, and it also offers a nice change of pace for a more experienced sewist.


About the author


Helen Wilkinson is the designer and founder of Helen's Closet Patterns. She also co-hosts the Love to Sew Podcast! Helen is obsessed with all things sewing and strives to share her passion and knowledge with the sewing community.

19 Comments on “Boiled Wool Berlin Jacket”

  1. I’ve been thinking a lot about a boiled wool cardi ever since I saw one hanging in Gala fabrics about a year ago – just like yours with unfinished edges and simple, yet visible seaming. Love yours Helen! So cozy and just in time for spring.

  2. This is so perfect. I went right to the Tessuti site and bought the pattern. Caroline seems to have had a run on boiled wool. No clay fabric I the shop as I would have expected. Can you provide more details about what you used in terms of weight etc? I am going to see if I can find something similar. You are in fire with your makes! Btw going to make my first Blackbirds while I search out boiled wool sources.

    1. Thanks Julie! You should try Stone Mountain and Daughter for more boiled wool options. I used about 1.75 meters in all, but I made the largest size. If you are making a S-M, I think 1.5m is accurate. If you are buying in yards, I would get 2 to be on the safe side!

  3. I have that very boiled wool, and have been struggling with the best option for it. You know the cutting fear factor! I think this is the winner – thanks for sharing. I don’t get to Vancouver often, so we won’t show up at the same venue in the same coat!.

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  5. Do you recommend using your bust or hip measurement when choosing a size for this pattern? My hip measurement is 6 inches larger than my bust measurement and I always have a hard time with this.

    1. Hi Ofelia! My bust and hips typically put me into one size, but if I were to be larger in the hips like yourself, I would choose based on bust and grade out at the hips. I hope that helps!

  6. Hi Helen, love your berlin jacket. How did you decide on horizontal pocket placement? The markings on the pattern pieces are much smaller than the pocket. Yours look like they are closer to the front facing than the side seam? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    1. Hi Lisa!

      Thank you! I honestly can not remember why I put the pockets where I did. In fact, they are quite low and I always think about moving them. I suggest saving the pockets for last and trying the jacket on with the pockets pinned on to confirm the placement before sewing.

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