One of the questions we get often about our Yanta Overalls pattern is “Can I make these for my
The number one thing you can do to ensure success when sewing for others is to make a muslin. I know it’s not always possible, but when you can, go for it! This step will ensure the finished garment fits and that your end-wearer is happy!
I started off Sam’s overalls by making some preliminary adjustments to the pattern. I graded between sizes based on his measurements and added length for his height. I also lengthened the straps because I knew I wanted to do overalls hardware.
Here are the details:
Chest: 51.5” / 131 cm (size 26)
Waist: 49” / 124.5 cm (size 30)
Low belly: 52” / 132 cm (size 30+)
Hips: 46” / 117 cm (size 18)
Height: 6’2” / 188 cm
I chose to use size 26 for the top half and blend down to a 20 in the legs even though Sam’s waist measurements put him in a larger size. Yanta has generous ease in the mid-section and he said he didn’t want them fitting too loose. I also knew that blending from a 34 waist to 18 hip would be too dramatic of a curve, so a 26-20 made the most sense as a starting place.
As for height, I initially added 6” (15 cm) total, and then after the first fit we ended up adding another 6” (15 cm).
After the first fit check, we realized we needed even more height in the rise of the overalls and he decided he wanted the legs to go all the way to the ground. Yanta has a slightly cropped leg so we added extra length to the legs. We also added length to the top of the bib because it was sitting low. Basically, we needed way more length! I slashed the muslin and sewed in the extra length in sections.
In addition to the length, we also took the overalls in a bit from the hip to the calf. I did this by simply sewing the side seams with a larger seam allowance.
After the second fit check, he felt there was not enough room in the back for bending over. It was feeling tight in the butt and pulling at the shoulders. I added another little wedge of fabric to the back rise to make more room in the seat. I also added a bit more length in the upper back.
You can see that we marked up the muslin with sharpie to denote the pocket placement as well as some additional workwear panels. We did an extra layer of denim at the knees and I added some reinforcement to the back crotch, where his pants tend to wear out.
At this point Sam was feeling happy with the fit but still a little concerned about mobility and comfort. Muslin fabric can be incredibly stiff and unforgiving, so I felt confident that in the more flexible and soft bull denim, the fit would be more comfortable. We also decided to make the side scoops in the front a little less scooped. I just made this change on the finished pattern. I also changed the angle of the front darts to fit his belly shape better.
The finished product is so great! He loves the fit and just as I suspected, the mobility and comfort greatly improved with the fashion fabric. These are intended for him to do yardwork in and so the green colour felt very appropriate. I can’t wait to see how they soften and age with wear.
As I was sewing them I accidentally cut into the side seam of the back pants with my rotary cutter. I had a moment of panic and then I just decided to add another reinforced panel to the sides of the back and it turned out great!
My biggest takeaway from this project is that I am so glad we went through the muslining process and did several rounds of changes until it was perfect. If I had just tried to estimate his size and length requirements, it would not have fit nearly as well! Now he has a practical and wearable pair of overalls that he loves and I’m so happy.
