When we released the Cameron Button Up last winter, I sewed up this version in wool coating to see if it could be done (hello, bulky seams)! My vision for this was a wool “shacket” and I thought Cameron would be perfect for this project!
Here is a quick rundown of the changes I made to make this shacket:
- Sized up two sizes (instead of a 16, I made a 20). An 18 would have worked too, but I wanted room to layer my hoodie underneath.
- Straightened out the hem (no side scoop). This was purely personal preference.
- Added lower front patch pockets.
- Enlarged the chest pockets and squared off the bottom.
- Added pocket flaps to chest pockets.
Other than the changes listed above, I sewed Cameron as instructed! I really wanted to see if it was possible to sew the sleeve placket and collar stand with such a bulky fabric. This wool is around 11oz (400 gsm). It was doable, but I will tell you that it was challenging. If using a lofty/bulky fabric like this, I would suggest sewing the sleeve placket and one side of the collar stand out of a lighter fabric. I ended up hand sewing the collar stand closed instead of topstitching and I had much more control that way.
I love the additional front pockets at the waist! These are ideal for my phone, keys, and all the doggie treats I carry around. It is nice to not have to carry a purse on walks. I chose to make these quite large and shape them with an angled opening. I just cut a shape out of paper and laid it on the jacket. I then trimmed and adjusted the paper until I liked the final result. Add seam allowance and you’ve got your pocket!
The pocket flaps were also a nice addition. I made my chest pockets oversized and so the pocket flaps are quite large but I’m into them! These are easy to add, it is just a square that has been folded and sewn with right sides together. Turn it right side out and sew it to the shirt above the chest pockets, first pointing up and then folded down to sew it again and enclose the raw edges. I am still debating whether to add buttons/buttonholes to them—what do you think?
I pattern matched the side seams of this jacket but I opted not to match the lower pockets so they would stand out a bit more on the front. The back yoke and chest pockets are cut on the bias. This shacket is unlined and as a result it is a little scratchy inside. I don’t mind this but I could see making another version with a nice rayon bemburg lining. So luxurious!
For seam finishes, I decided to try for flat felled. Again, I wanted to see if it was possible! I was pretty successful, but any areas with an intersecting seam, like at the shoulder, it was nearly impossible to fold the fabric over. I used wonder tape but no luck. The raw edge is peaking out in a couple spots. Oh well! I’m not fussed about it.
I love this shacket! I have another one planned and I think there are lots of cool ways to customize Cameron to make this style of garment. For my next one I want to add more length and try sewing inseam pockets. I’m going to use a nice thick flannel for that one.
