It’s time for a new Falconer Pants hack! I love all of my Falconers, but sometimes you just don’t want a fitted waistband. Some days are for elastic waist pants only! Well, you can have the great leg fit and cool side panels of Falconer without the hard waistband by hacking them to have a stretchy one! You can even still have belt loops to mimic a fitted waist when worn with a belt. Let’s get into it!
The Falconer Pants are on sale this week for 20% off! Code FALCONERSALE automatically applies at checkout. Sale ends October 6th.
How to make elastic waist Falconer Pants
The main thing we are going to do to achieve this is to take out the waist shaping at the top of the pants leg pieces. We have a front leg, a back leg, and a side leg to work with.
First, make a mark on the pants around the hip area on the front leg, right where the panel seam starts to curve in. Measure from the mark to the top of the pants, following the curve of the pattern (a bendy or curved ruler is handy here).
Now, with some extra paper taped in behind the pants pattern, we are going to straighten out the curve from the hip to the waist. We don’t want it to flare out, but we do want to remove any waist shaping here. We are also going to straighten out the center front seam.
Draw a straight line from the marking up to just past the waist. Measure from that hip marking the same distance, up along your new straightened line. Mark where the top of the waist should be.
Repeat for the front crotch. Do not straighten the front crotch completely though, as it can result in too much fabric at the front. Add a little bit, 1/2” - 3/4” (1.3 - 1.9 cm) to begin with, as you can always add more later. True up the pattern along the waist.
Repeat this process for the side leg, starting to straighten out the sides around the full hip. Do not straighten the seams completely, keep a slight curve. You should only be adding 1/2” - 3/4” (1.3 -1.9 cm) at each seam. It will look something like this:
For the back leg, straighten out the side (this may be minimal or no change). Add 1/2” - 5/8” (1.3 - 1.6 cm) to the center back at the waist. True up the center back crotch curve.
Now, mark your 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowance along the top and sides of each pattern piece and measure your new waist seam. This will be the measurement for the waistband pattern piece (Waistband Measurement).
Multiply your new waist measurement by two to make sure it is the same size as your hip measurement. If it is smaller, you need to add more room to the waist. You can do this at the center back seam or by flaring out the other seams slightly. If you have to add more than 1/2” (1.3 cm) we recommend splitting it between a few seams.
Once you have your Waistband Measurement, you can use that to draft the waistband pattern piece. For a 1.5” (3.8 cm) elastic waistband, your waistband pattern piece should be 3 ⅛” (8 cm) tall by your Waistband Measurement, plus ⅝” (1.6 cm) seam allowance to match the seam allowance on the leg pieces.
This method will result in a waistband joined with two seams. You can align these seams to the side notches on the side leg pattern piece or to the front and back crotch seams. If you prefer a continuous waistband with one seam, simply cut this pattern piece on the fold.
You also need to adjust the side pockets to fit the new shape of the side pants. Lay the pocket on top of the pants, matching pocket notches and add paper to get it to match. It might not be a big change. You will also need to move the top pocket notches on the side leg and the pocket pieces out to the new seam lines.
That is all the pattern adjusting you need to do, now let’s talk sewing! You only need the front/side/back leg pieces as well as the new waistband and new pocket. You do not need to cut the original waistband or any of the fly pattern pieces. You can sew the belt loops if you want.
Sewing Steps
-
Skip the zipper fly! Yay!
-
Sew the side pockets onto the pants.
-
Sew the front/side/back pants together.
-
Add the belt loops (optional).
-
Fold and sew on the waistband, leaving an opening for elastic.
-
Insert elastic and topstitch if desired. See our post on sewing an elastic waistband here.
-
Finish the belt loops if you added them.
And voila! You have elastic waist Falconer Pants!
I hope you enjoy this pattern hack! I’m in love with my brown linen version, they are so comfy and perfect for fall. This is the everyday linen from Blackbird Fabrics in Coffee Liquor. I know I will be wearing these a ton! I particularly like how the side pocket sits open a bit thanks to the gathering at the waist. I can see another version in a striped cotton in my future!
The Falconer Pants are on sale this week for 20% off! Code FALCONERSALE automatically applies at checkout. Sale ends October 6th.
