Have you ever thought of lining your York Pinafore? Adding a slippery lining can make a garment more comfortable and prolong its life. Although it might seem intimidating, in this post we will show you two ways to do it. One of them is very beginner-friendly!
You can use a variety of fabrics to line the York Pinafore. We recommend choosing a slippery fabric to allow for easy movement and keep the pinafore from sticking to your hips and legs (this is especially handy if you plan to wear it with tights)! There are many slippery fabrics that would fit the bill, but something labeled specifically for lining (like rayon bemberg) is going to be a great bet.
Before we show you how to sew a lining into York, let’s talk about cutting the lining out. You will need to cut both front and back pieces out of lining material in addition to your main fabric. We recommend making the lining around 2” (5 cm) shorter than the final length of the pinafore. This will ensure the lining is long enough but keep it from peaking out beneath the hem of the skirt. If you've made any adjustments to your York, like lengthening or grading between the sizes, you will need to make the same adjustments to the lining pieces.
How to Line the York Pinafore
First, complete steps 1-14 of the instructions as you normally would.
First Method: AKA the "Easy Way"
Finish the sides and shoulders on the front and back pieces of the main and lining pinafore separately with the seam finish of your choice. With right sides together, pin and sew the front pinafore to the back pinafore at the shoulders and sides, using ⅝” (1.6 cm) seam allowance. Press seams open.
With the wrong side of the lining facing the wrong side of the pinafore, place the lining inside the pinafore. Match the shoulder and side seams. Pin the lining to the pinafore along the neckline and armholes. Baste the lining and pinafore together using a ¼” (0.6 cm) seam allowance.
Proceed to step 16 of the instructions.
Note that from this point on, the pinafore with the attached lining is treated as “one”. You will be attaching the bias tape to the pinafore and lining at the same time. When you hem the pinafore, make sure to hem the lining separately.
Second Method: AKA the "Advanced Way"
This next method is great if you want a clean finish around the neck and arm openings and want to skip the bias binding altogether! This is a more classic lining construction and is a bit more fiddly, but it is worth it!
Notes about the advanced way:
- You may want to add some width to the straps of the pinafore. We will be using a burrito method to attach the lining, and it may be difficult to pull the garment apart through a narrow shoulder seam. We recommend widening the straps by ⅜”-⅝” (1 cm - 1.6 cm). If using a lightweight fabric, you may not need to widen the shoulders.
- When drafting and cutting the lining pieces out, try to make the lining approximately 1/8" (0.3 cm) narrower than the main pinafore at the armscyes and neckline. This will make the main pinafore fabric roll slightly to the inside and prevent the lining from peeking out at the edges.
Finish the sides and shoulders on the front and back pieces of the main and lining pinafore separately using the seam finish of your choice. With right sides together, pin and sew the front pinafore to the back pinafore at the shoulders only, using a ⅝” (1.6 cm) seam allowance. Press the seams open. Do not sew the side seams yet. Repeat for the lining front and back.
With the right side of the lining facing the right side of the pinafore, pin the lining to the pinafore at the neck opening. Sew using a ⅜” (1 cm) seam allowance. Clip the curved areas.
Turn the lining and the pinafore right side out. Try to pull the lining a little more towards the inside so that the right side (the main fabric) rolls inside the pinafore. Press. If desired, you can understitch around the neck at this time.
Now it is time to use a burrito method to finish one armhole at a time.
Lay the pinafore flat with the lining side up. Roll one side of the pinafore towards the other side. Flip the main pinafore around the roll, so the right side of the pinafore is facing the right side of the lining. Line up the armhole edges and pin them in place. Sew using a ⅜” (1 cm) seam allowance. Clip the curved areas.
Pull the roll ride side out and press the armhole flat. This may seem difficult because it is a lot of bulk to pull through one small tube. Go slowly and pull a bit through at a time. Repeat the above step for the other side. You can understitch the armscyes as much as possible, but you won't be able to sew all the way up to the shoulder and that is OK.
With the lining side of the pinafore facing out, pull the lining up so you are looking at the wrong side of the lining and the main fabric. With right sides together and working with one side at a time, line up the side seams of the front and back of the pinafore and lining, paying close attention to lining up the underarm join. Pin in place. Sew the lining and pinafore side seams in one go. Repeat for the other side and press the seams open.
Note: You can baste the side seams to test out the fit before sewing and finishing this seam finally.
Pull the lining back down and press everything flat. Stitch-in-the-ditch of the pinafore side seam, right underneath the armhole, to secure the lining in place. You don't need to stitch the whole side seam, just the first few inches. Hem the lining and the pinafore separately.
There you go! Two ways to line the York Pinafore. Which one will you choose?
