The Y-shaped back of the Yanta Overalls can be tricky to sew, but the good news is that there is more than one way to do it! One thing I love about sewing is that there are always multiple ways to accomplish the same thing. Feel free to give the method below a shot and see if it works better for you!
Note: this is an illustrated version of a tutorial we've previously shared on Instagram. You can head to our Instagram stories for supplemental video content to help you with the steps below. Look for the highlight "Yanta Back 2".
Sewing the Yanta Y-Back: Alternative Method
In the original instructions, the Yanta straps are pinned on and sandwiched in between the body and the facing, which may not work as well with bulky fabrics like denim or corduroy. Below we will show you a different way to attach the straps, this time by attaching the facing first and leaving space to insert the straps later.
Start by completing steps 1-24 in the original instructions.
With right sides together, align the facing to the overalls. Pin it in place around the front and back of the overalls.
Next, we will need to mark the strap insertion areas with chalk, so the seam allowance around the strap placement area remains completely free. Mark the 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowance on the top, stopping ⅝” (1.6 cm) before the edge on both sides. Make another pair of marks where the small angle is at the bottom of the strap insertion area, as shown above.
Attach the facing to the overalls using a ⅜” (1 cm) seam allowance, making sure to stop sewing at your chalk marks.
Pivot and sew along the inside of the teeth at the zipper (if using a zipper).
Grade the seams and clip corners as usual. Clip notches into the curved areas.
Pre-press the seam allowances around the strap openings. Press the sides in and then the top.
Repeat for the other side.
Press seam allowances towards the facing and understitch. You will not be able to press and understitch all the way around—just do the best you can.
Now turn the overalls right side out. The pre-pressed lines will help the seam allowances stay tucked inside at the strap insertion area. Press the overalls and the facing flat, and stitch-in-the-ditch at the side seams, darts, and center front and back seams to secure the facing in place.
Insert the straps into the strap openings. Pin in place and try the overalls on to make sure the angle of the straps is working for you. Adjust if necessary.
Secure the back straps in place with topstitching. Extend the topstitching down to the center back seam, following the angle of the straps, to create a diamond shape. Reinforce the straps with an extra line of topstitching ¼” (0.6 cm) away from the first one.
Now you can proceed to step 34 of the Yanta Overalls instructions to finish making your garment.
I personally like this method when I'm working with an especially bulky fabric, but you may find that you prefer to use it all the time. If you're not sure . . . test! Using scrap fabrics to practice new techniques is a great way to build our skills and try out different construction methods.
